Briefing for Bespoke: Psychology of Appearance
Appearance comes in two forms; how we see ourselves, and how others see us. And one impacts on the other. One is more to do with self expression, the other with fitting in. The important thing is not to mix the two up or the consequences, at an extreme level, can be severe.
We read how there are countries where wearing the wrong sort of clothes can have devastating results; in Iraq, Afghanistan and Northern India women receive harsh punishments for openly wearing western clothes rather than the burqah or sari. We don’t have to journey as far as that to find in our own backyard similar adverse reactions to styles of dress. In Lancashire (UK) in 2007 a young couple dressed as ‘moshers’ or Goths were set upon by a group of teenagers and murdered because they stood out from the crowd.
The way in which we dress can provoke life influencing decisions from others and it is interesting to note that as we chart our way through one of the most challenging periods of financial uncertainty in modern times, this is having a corresponding effect on how people dress. The pervasive ‘dress down’ styles which were becoming increasingly popular in City offices have, according to my clients who know such things, been supplanted by the more formal aspects of business wear in the interest of job preservation.
Paradoxically, this doesn’t just mean a visit to the ‘off the peg’ purveyors of business wear, but a move towards something which allows for a closer reflection of personality and tradition. With job prospects under threat those first vital seconds, when appearance counts for more than words (Mehrabian. 1997), are becoming almost a new battleground for gaining an edge. Remember the old cliché…”how do you dress in a recession…up!”, whilst at the same time fluctuations in the stock market apparently influence the height of hemlines.
Leveraging one’s appearance with regard to clothes has to take on board a number of different elements; colour, pattern, texture, style, detail, fit and proportion. Of these, convention insists that colour, pattern, texture and style fit within fairly tight constraints. This leaves detail, fit and proportion as the principal variables.
Detail by way of linings, button configurations, pockets, lapels, ventings, can all be used to create a sense of differentiation from others, but again these have to be subtle. Perhaps the area which can create the most impact is with the fit and proportion. ‘Fit’ refers to the way in which a garment follows the natural curves of the body, ‘proportion’ deals with the overall balance of a garment and can be influenced by all the other elements. In some ways there is a sense of Gestalt about the balance of all these different elements.
From the research that has been undertaken into the psychology of clothing, and my own observation of professional women in all walks of life, from the concert platform to the boardroom, I would suggest three simple guiding principles.
1. Be aware of what is custom and practice in the environment in which you are going to be moving.
2. The right accessories, or subtle accents on a garment, can make an impact, and a little goes a long way.
3. Well cut garments suited to your proportions say much more about you than the latest fashion trend.
Let’s leave the final words with Coco Chanel “Dress sharply and they notice the dress. Dress impeccably and they notice the woman”
Photos: Thanks to Kimball Andrew Schmidt
Tags: appearance, bespoke, suits
