Tailoring for Women

Out of all of the people I know in the trade Tom, at English Cut is the person who has made the most effective use of technology in extending his ‘shop window’, taking his business to clients and dispelling some of the mystique behind the profession.  It makes for an interesting juxtaposition, the intimacy of the bespoke process alongside simple mass communication methods and his blog appears to be something to which many turn.

He has a wealth of ‘back stories’ emanating from his colleagues in the trade, and was gracious enough to mention my own trip to New York earlier this year and the response from a simple post was most encouraging.

I wish Tom all the best and look forward to meeting up with him again after his own trip to the States this Autumn.

With my first trip to Japan to research the design of the ‘kimono‘ imminent, our latest commission couldn’t have been more appropriate.

These are samples from an elegant dress we created recently for the Minister of Culture at the Japanese Embassy, Minister Mizutori, (now Director of Finance for the Japanese Foreign Ministry).  The garment was required for the formal ceremony at Buckingham Palace when the new Ambassador, Shin Ebihara, presented his credentials to Her Majesty, The Queen.

Minister Mizutori is a prominent figure in Japanese diplomatic circles and she is widely acknowledged as having achieved much by the innovative ways in which she has promoted Japanese culture in the UK.

There are certain protocols that have to be observed when dressing for this kind of event such as the length of sleeves, acceptable décolté , and how to fit in with other attendees.  Also, the fact that it was during the middle of the day made for a brief with some additional challenges.

Last week one of our new clients brought a suit in for alteration – not one of ours, but we try to help out.  I was glad to have the opportunity to spend a little time with this garment because it reminded me of some of the differences between the processes of bespoke and ready-made, some of which are not always obvious at the moment of purchase.

The first thing I have to say is that despite the fact that the garment was a ready-made item, it was not an inexpensive garment and had been purchased from one of the more recognisable suppliers.

In alterring a ready-made suit one is faced immediately with problems caused by its construction.  Rather than canvasses and inlays being basted together, and seams being bound together with thread, in the interests of mass production  the process of attachment is now the use of glue.  This is not to say that fusing doesn’t have a place, but if you are likely to need any adaptation in a garment – let’s face it we all tend to change shape - once a garment has been fused there is little you can do.

There is another matter I have noticed with regard to the use of such glues.  After a suit has been taken to a dry cleaners a number of times, and particularly when a steam iron has been used on a garment, this combination of chemicals and robust pressing techniques soon starts to weaken the adhesive properties and you will notice that the garment will start to ‘bubble’ particularly on the lapel.

Finally, it is usually the case that in a bespoke suit allowances are left within the seams for any later adjustments that need to be made.  In most ready-made suits, largely in the interests of economy, there is generally very little additional fabric available to allow any ‘easing’.  So other than changing the length of sleeve or trouser leg there is little one can do.

I can see the argument for buying ready-made garments particularly in these financially challenging times however it is interesting to note the number of articles appearing in the press recently suggesting that it is now better to ‘buy up’ into a better and more reliable quality range than go for cheaper alternatives.

The gunrooms of Holland & Holland are known the world over.  The weapons they make for the shooting field are highly prized and they have a reputation for making some of the finest hand crafted products available.  They have a tradition dating back to 1835 and  have their own dedicated factory and shooting school close to London.   Their main store is in Bruton Street, Mayfair, although they also have showrooms in Paris, New York and Moscow.

During the period when I ran their bespoke tailoring department I was commissioned to create a special garment for the Millenium.  This maribou-lined chintz jacket and hand printed silk kilt ensemble was featured in their showrooms in Manhattan and Beverley Hills

Pinky has had an illustrious career as one of the leading sportswomen in trap and skeet winning 5 European Championships, a bronze medal at the Commonwealth Games, and joins the ranks of top women athletes as one of the few to be voted Sportswoman of the Year.  She was the first Briton to take part in the Olympics in both trap and skeet and was the inspiration behind the first of the shooting waistcoats I was commissioned to make for the British Shooting Team.

Unknown to many of her followers is the fact that she also designs and hand makes exquisite jewelery from semi-precious and precious stones.  Some of her work is currently on view at Holland & Holland, Mayfair.

“Carol has a great eye for detail and it is wonderful to find someone with such an understanding of the value of hand-crafted items.  I applaud her new venture and wish Tailoring for Women every success” Pinky Le Grelle

We have quite an exclusive list of suppliers for our specialist suitings, however whenever we receive a commision for something out of the ordinary we turn to Joel & Son Fabrics.   Situated just north of Marble Arch in Central London, they have the most extensive range of printed silks and beaded lace that you can find almost anywhere.

Alongside, they have a wide selection of materials with which you can co-ordinate your garment. They also have a wealth of advice as to how to match the properties of a particular cloth with a garment’s design or purpose.   There reputation is such that they are frequently required to source and supply fabrics for many a State occasion.

We have worked together for the past 20 years and I frequently send my clients direct to their premises where Joel’s staff are extremely helpful, and will take time to make this first exploration part of the whole bespoke experience.

Every high quality hand-made product has a process, and at Tailoring for Women we are no different.

One of the complexities of any tradition is that over time it can become cloaked in mystery, and bespoke tailoring certainly qualifies, with a history going back over 500 years.  (For those who want to be ‘in the know’ there is a fascinating insight into the historical background in The Savile Row Story.  Sadly now out of print, there are still copies available.)

As the Knowledge Base of our blog expands you will find a wide range of articles to help demystify the process, making your wardrobe decisions a little easier.

In time there will be guidance notes about the process of placing an order and how best to prepare for this, advice on the choice of materials, tips on how to look after your garments, and more general articles about colour analysis, seasonal innovations, and insights into how a bespoke garment is transformed from a collection of disparate materials into an elegant 3-dimensional sculpture.

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I was invited to meet with Emma Willis in Jermyn Street the other day.  She has impressive premises with an extremely helpful staff and a beautiful display of shirts made from top-end Swiss and Italian cottons.  This image is from a feature she received in Vogue.

What I found exceptional is that she has a specific range of shirts for women with the right feminine accents and detail that really do cater to the female form.  Other shirt makers have collections for women, however as an observer and purchaser I find their product no more than a version of a man’s shirt. Take for example cuff size; usually too big for the female wrist.  And button position – never at the bust point where it is needed!

Certainly the experience of meeting Emma and her staff makes it worth a visit, and a welcome pause if you are walking through St. James, just off Piccadilly.

When I first started business in the UK it was through a company I created called ‘The Concert Store’.  Music is a great passion of mine, and this business brought me into contact with a wide range of concert performers.

Mary Carewe was one of my early clients and here she is pictured with her duet partner Sara Eyden at the Philharmonic Hall in Liverpool performing at a Bernstein Spectacular with the conductor Carl Davies.

Later in July Mary flies to the States to perform in Indianapolis, and she will be appearing at the Cadogan Hall (6-9th August) in a celebration of the music of Cole Porter.

Team Great Britain heads off to Beijing on a wave of success in the European Championships and with our waistcoats securely packed in their luggage.  I began working with them in November 2007 as a result of the successful collaboration  for the last Commonwealth Games.

The interesting thing about the shooting waistcoats we made is that they require a combination of diverse fabrics each with their own properties that have to be blended together into a highly developed garment that works with the athlete when they compete at this high level.  A particular issue also was how the materials might react to the climatic extremes in China.