Tailoring for Women

Recently I participated in a number of conferences in and around the Square Mile (the traditional financial centre of London) and the things about which I am asked most frequently are to do with the process of making a bespoke suit; specifically what does it involve, and how can one best prepare for it. A bespoke suit is comprised of an intricate and subtle layering of fabrics which are so arranged to mold to your body over time.  Like a good wine, it takes on character as it matures.

So, bearing in mind that you want to get the most out of your investment…and I really do look at it in that light…here are some pointers.

Preparation beforehand: The what, where, when and why’s of your garment

• Venue.  Do you need to fit in with current custom and practice
• Use.  Is this purely for the office or will it have to fulfil other purposes
• Climate.  High humidity, or freezing air conditioning…or both
• Time.  All day, evening, working hours
• Event.  Is this for a special occasion
• Image.  What impression do you wish to create
• Wardrobe.  What do you have in your collection

Consultation: Initial questions

• * Design.  Do I have to stick to a classic style ( single-breasted, double-breasted, button 2, button 3, vents etc.) ?  What modifications can be made (style of cuff, width of lapel, contrasting stitching etc.) ? Can you work from an illustration?  How will it be ‘finished’ (edge stitching, handmade button-holes etc)?
• Process.  Where will the garment be produced?  Can I make changes to the design after the making process has started?
• Timetable.  How long will the whole process take? How many fittings will there be? Can you fit within my schedule? Can you deliver to me?
• Materials.  What choice of materials are available (main cloth, linings, trimmings etc.)?
• Costs.  What is the schedule of payments?  Are there likely to be any extras?
• Accessories.  What additional items might I need?

Following on: the first fitting

• At your first fitting you will have the opportunity to see the internal workings of the garment before the lining has been installed.  Things you will be asked to consider will include
• Balance, fit and shape
• Any revisions to the original design – as the process advances there is less opportunity for making major modifications

Second fitting:

Not always required, but an opportunity to check on any major changes as a result of the first fitting

Completion:

• Aftercare.  How should I best store my garment?  How should it be cleaned? How should it be packed for travel?
• Maintenance.  Can I come back for future alterations or ‘tune-ups’?

You can perhaps see from all this thought, time and attention that there is a good reason for calling it the ‘bespoke experience’.