Revisiting the fuller figure
In a UK market where we are told the average women’s size is 16, for the Sunday Times Style magazine to feature the fuller figure (“The Triumph of Curves“) seems timely. We have covered this topic before, however I think in the case of this article it does need something of a reality check.
It is interesting that all the models photographed look beautifully proportioned. In my experience such perfection is not always apparent and the fuller figure does present a number of challenges that are not always equally distributed. Something else worth mentioning is how the body shape will change when one is active. Even the simple act of sitting down can put stresses on a garment that require a tolerance not obvious in some of the featured samples.
I first started to look closer at the moulding of the female form when I worked with the designer Georgina Godley in the recreation of her 80′s “Lumps and Bumps” collection for “Addressing the Century: 100 years of Art and Fashion” at London’s Hayward Gallery in 1999. I spent many hours with a mannequin, chunks of foam rubber glued together, and an electric carving knife, exploring different body shapes.
It is interesting to notice, when ready-made garments are graded up to larger sizes how these can look somehow out of balance on a larger frame. This is particularly noticeable at the shoulder line which often appears to “grow” too wide. If a garment fits neatly to the span of the shoulder it is much more flattering for a woman (the fit for men is different).
Without being too technical, when drafting a pattern for a bespoke piece the trick is to merge an accurate shoulder measure into the proportionally larger bust and waist. A neat armhole must marry up to a darting system for the bustline. If this is styled well the garment will fit the main points on the figure and trick the eye into seeing a smaller size. Of course this is not so easy to reproduce for the mass market.
If you have a larger frame it helps if you are tall; with an ample bust, balanced hips and shoulders, and a well defined waist – certainly when it comes to dressing from the high street. Otherwise one has to look at a combination of solutions.
It is interesting also to note how some fuller figures work better with fitted clothing, whereas others need a looser fit, or even a combination of the two. Balance is everything, and not always easy to achieve from hunting through racks of clothes.
This is why we are here!
Tags: curves, fuller figure, proportion
