Checks and balances
Autumn\Winter collections will soon start to appear in retailers’ windows with the usual re-emergence of checks and plaids. Working with these types of fabric brings a unique set of challenges. If they are handled well, the garment takes on an added sharpness. If not, the result will offend the eye and the garment will fail to achieve its full potential.
Plaids can be printed or woven and come in two basic forms; balanced or unbalanced. ‘Balanced’ plaids have a symmetrical repetition of the pattern’s stripes growing outwards from each side of a central point. An ‘unbalanced’ plaid is assymetrical with just a repeating series of stripes.
When working with plaids you need to purchase more fabric than usual in order to accommodate the matching of pattern repeats. This is particularly the case if the design has a large number of pieces. A good rule of thumb is to allow for two additional repeats of the pattern.
Correct cutting of the pattern is crucial; it determines the way in which the pattern of the cloth will align precisely across the seams. This is the mark of a top class garment.
First comes the matching of the sideseams of both jacket and trousers. Next, the horizontal lines at the top of the sleeve front should match those on the body of the jacket. And the centre seam on the back should not interupt the pattern, aligning perfectly with the collar. For the lapels, the stripes should run parallel to their edges, and pocket flaps should not interupt the flow of the pattern.
It is also possible to create chevron seams where the patterns of each part meet at 90 degrees.
Single layer cutting ensures the right design in the correct place on the fabric, and pattern pieces need to mirror each other, creating symetrical shapes where one is the exact reverse of the other. You also need take account of the direction of the nap of the cloth.
Kilts are a traditional plaid garment that bring their own set of problems. The combination of the amount of cloth and the way in which it is pleated gives it a characteristic swing when walking, however the way in which this is created is highly specialised. The aim is to conceal sufficient cloth within a pleat so that the folded edges align with the repeat of the pattern. This means that the length of cloth has to be calculated individually, depending upon the width of the repeat.
Working with plaids is like trying to solve an enormous three dimensional puzzle. Just like some of the interlocking wooden puzzles you see in toy shops, if you change one element, you have to consider how it affects all the others. Sudoku for suits!
