Tailoring for Women

Sunnier days and warmer weather are here in London. We are all looking forward to being able to wear less. For women, trousers will give way to the more comfortable skirt. Perhaps for men also – though at the moment that’s confined to the more adventurous fashion icons such as David Beckham and Axl Rose. In fact, skirts, sarongs, kilts – call them what you will – have an important place in the evolution of male clothing. You’ll find them as traditional attire in cultures where men spent much of their time out of doors, usually in wet or damp conditions (think Scottish heather or Malaysian swamps) where closer-fitting trousers would quickly become waterlogged, making movement both difficult and uncomfortable.

But back to women. It’s unlikely you will be pre-occupied by having to wade across rivers!  The perennial skirt question is: how long or short should a hemline be? Most people imagine this is a question of feminine allure. In the 19th century, revealing an ankle was considered risqué; then in the 1960s, Mary Quant’s Bazaar in the King’s Road, Chelsea (London) became the epicentre of the miniskirt revolution. Since then, extremes of possibilities have probably given rise to more dress anguish among women than any other issue. Some have even linked skirt length to the stock market – shorter skirts reflecting better economic times.

The subject is truly fascinating, but such observations are not going to help the professional women get her summer look just right for both business and comfort. Regardless of what fashion dictates, one has to look at the proportions of one’s own frame to determine just how much leg to show. Whatever current fashion trends are demanding, the best place to start, as always, is with yourself. So start by taking a good look at your legs!

Stand in front of the mirror in the shoes you are used to wearing. Hold a piece of fabric in front of you (even a pillow case will do). Raise and lower the fabric from the ankle to thigh and notice where the flattering points are. You will probably notice that these are not at the widest part of your calf or thigh, so keep away from these areas. Repeat the process with different heel heights. Get a friend to help in recording the measurements of your ideal lengths, for shopping or for taking to your tailor. (There are more details about line, shape and proportion in an earlier post here.)

In fact, there are just a few flattering lengths for a skirt. Both have to do with the curve of the upper and lower leg. The hemline should highlight the points where the leg is at its narrowest.

Whilst accentuating your assets in this way, bear in mind what is appropriate for your age and professional attire. Here are some tips:

• Repeat the lines and shapes in your figure. Curvier, softer styles suit the fuller curvier shapes while tailored, pleated styles suit the straighter more angular shapes
• Longer waists can wear taller waistbands/belts, shorter waists are better with thinner bands or faced waistlines
• Look for the comfort of a well-made fully lined skirt. Check for reinforced pleats and pockets, and a secure hook and bar or button at the top of the zip.

For a safe bet – a slightly A-line skirt at knee length will look good on most shapes and sizes.

Tights or not? Tights help the leg to look slimmer, and no matter what the temperature, they are the correct choice in a formal work environment.

For those not comfortable in skirts, options include cropped or shorter trousers. The same measuring rules apply.

Tags: A-line, Beckham, kilt, miniskirt, Quant, sarong, skirt length, work uniform