I recently had some interesting exchanges with a friend on what is meant by ‘personal branding’. We agreed about how branding works with consumer goods, hotel chains, etc., but we both found it difficult to imagine how it might work for an individual woman with a demanding professional career. Many of my clients at TfW fall into this category, but they often have little time (or energy, I suspect) to embrace the concept, let alone explore the possibilities. Here is a good way to think of branding. (more…)
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I make no secret of my love of craft – the special skills, the attention to detail, the creativity. This week I’m privileged to speak at a meeting of the City Women’s Network (London), a forum for female professionals from all sectors and I’m going to return to my favourite theme of craft in the guise of tailoring. Quite by chance I came across an episode of the UK cult TV series ‘The Dragon’s Den’ the other day. (more…)
We all understand the term ‘power dressing,’ referring to how the style and cut of garments can enhance an air of power and authority. Of course we might not always want say ‘I am the boss’, or ‘I am the richest’. We might want to say ‘I am the most popular’ or ‘I am the coolest’. But most people, at some time in their lives, choose their clothes to say ‘like me/love me’ or ‘obey me/listen to me’ or just ‘notice me – I am unique’. And of course once these basic games have been learned, the mind-games clothes can play start to become more interesting. (more…)
Although I have spoken on both MidWeek and Start the Week in the past, Woman’s Hour is such an iconic programme it was my dream that one day I would be given this opportunity. Thanks must go to Jaeger too who first put the proposal forward to the BBC.
It really is a fascinating, almost ‘other world-y’ type of experience. All very efficiently executed by the production staff who had to co-ordinate our own contribution with that of the other speakers, and all within their strict time allocation.
In preparation for the interview we discussed a wide range of possibilities. In reality, however, it was something of a task to condense the history of tailoring, and at the same time include the crucial intricacies of the ‘shoulder to hip’ profile of a woman’s figure, into the confines of a 10 minute slot. Jenni Murray was extremely deft in co-ordinating our input.
Unfortunately it may be the case that some of you outside of the UK can’t listen to the extract because of licensing restrictions. I hope not.
P.S. it was quite nice to see one of my jackets on the BBC Website too!
After all the time spent planning, the day arrived to give my presentation at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Regular readers of the TfW blog will know that this was something originally put forward as a proposal almost eight months ago, so it was a super feeling to be standing in front of a packed and appreciative audience. Fortunately I had the presence of mind to have it filmed.
My task was to open the seminar, which was beautifully hosted by the V&A’s Head of Adult Education, Jo Banham. Following this was an intriguing presentation by Jaeger. This year is their 125th anniversary and it was wonderful to see some of the pieces and pictures from their archive. I have a couple of vintage Jaeger pieces myself dating from the time Jean Muir was their designer and I treasure them.
Following this, Alan Cannon Jones, Senior Lecturer at the London College of Fashion talked about some of the new trends in tailored fashion, and some of the techniques that are used to support them.
The video attached to this post gives an edited version of my own contribution. There were also a number of Q&A points throughout the seminar and I plan to include some of the issues that were raised in future posts.
The topics I covered ranged from a whistle-stop tour of the history of women’s tailoring to an exploration of the practical skills that support it. This included the consideration of the physiological aspects, hand-crafting techniques, and the complex psychology that underlies the relationship with one’s client. I concluded with some thoughts around the future of women’s tailoring with reference to a statement I had compiled from the opinions of my clients.
“Women should have same the opportunities for investing in their wardrobes in the same way that they invest in their careers”
I hope that you don’t have too many problems with the download.
So, why are we always talking about the weather! I’m not one for making rash statements, but I’m willing to stick my neck out and predict that over the next few months the weather everywhere is going to be unpredictable. So the question of what to wear if, like me, you have an active outdoor and indoor life, starts to get tedious. A coat or not? A warm jacket? Will it rain? It’s sunny but it’s cold and windy… How to minimise having to shed layers every time you arrive in a building or jump in the car?
It’s a dilemma I’ve been pondering for some years and I’ve recently realised that our changing weather patterns are making it worse. So I got to work.
Thanks to my experience in the tailoring of country pursuits garments I was already aware of the extremely practical nature of the gilet – a sleeveless jacket often seen worn by ‘county women’ everywhere. Practical yes, but fashionable – very questionable.
Yet why not, I thought? Why not take the perfect answer to unpredictable weather and transform it into something that will look striking in almost any indoor or outdoor situation, without losing its practicality?
Introducing TfW’s Limited Edition Gilet. An all-season, comfortable, light, multi-use, warm, feminine garment which will eliminate cumbersome multi-weather dress problems for good. The gilet is sleeveless, which means freedom of movement. It can be worn over a business suit or under a topcoat. And its two-way zip enables you to adjust the front closure to suit almost any circumstances, whether driving or walking, sitting in a train or cycling indeed.
The garment is made from boiled wool, a fabric shrunk during manufacture so that it will retain its posture whatever the circumstances for the life of the garment.
And something else I learned from my country pursuits experience – handbags can be bad news when coping with windy or rainy conditions. So the TfW Gilet contains carefully crafted, fully lined pockets – for coins, mobile, travel documents, spectacles. And two secure internal zip pockets for credit cards, passes, etc.
An entirely original limited edition – but with unlimited style.
All photos: Keith Hern
It’s strange how music makes unusual connections in our brain. I was listening by chance to an old Yardbirds hit from 1966 – Over under sideways down… just as I was marking up some new cloth, when I realised that they were singing about exactly what I was doing! Cloth arrives folded with the wrong side facing out and right side protected in. (more…)
It’s been a busy week so far. I was thrilled to be featured alongside Sir Martin Sorrell and ‘Dragon’s Den’ Duncan Bannatyne in Business Sense Magazine, the National Westminster Bank’s national periodical. The rest of my time has been spent focussing on my presentation at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) with Jaeger. The process of tailoring is something which tends to take place away from public scrutiny, so being given such a prominent platform demands careful thought about why the art of bespoke is so unique.
It seems to me that the distinctive experience my clients seek is comprised of the knowledge and integration of three important and fundamental elements. Physiology, technique and …psychology.
Physiology is all about understanding the shape and proportions of the body, not as an object frozen in time, but as a dynamic entity that changes and flows as it moves. Most textbooks illustrate body types in 4 or 5 basic postures, but the devil is in the difference. I have yet to find a client whose shape fits these proportions precisely. I often give group seminars and set the participants the task of finding someone in the room that matches their own body shape. It hasn’t happened so far!
Technique is something which takes time to develop. It’s said that it takes 10,000 hours to reach a competent level of skill in any chosen activity. This may be so, but I find that I still look to expand my own skills base, and that is after over 20 years in the trade. The art of tailoring is still grounded in techniques that were developed in the 19th century, although the records show evidence as far back as the 13th century. Modern materials, the change in life styles and modern body proportions all influence the ways in which these techniques have to be applied so they have to be constantly revisited and refreshed.
Tailoring is a relationship business. We have to dress the body and the mind. So, the psychology of the relationship with ones client is paramount. This is all the more so as the current changes in society affects the role of women and how they wish to be perceived.
I was speaking with a former CEO of a global PR firm the other day who mentioned how he always emphasised the need for his staff to think of the image they portrayed when they visited clients. “They have to realise that if they are charging a four figure sum per day, the first impression they give their client as they walk in the room is vital, and this is dependent largely upon how they look”.
A potent statement when you consider how this simple matter can undermine the huge investment that has gone into training the company representative.
We reached a milestone recently. One that you helped to create. For just over a year we have been writing about tailoring for women, and it is incredible to see how our audience has grown. Our goal was to try to create a hub of information that addressed some of the prevailing practical issues for women when it comes to selecting tailored clothing, and to help you make better informed decisions. Judging from our Google rankings it has reached way beyond our initial expectations…and cultural boundaries.
From India to Canada interest has been stimulated, and not only amongst our immediate client base. Discussions have been opened with other craftspeople from the trade, a regular stream of apprentices and work experience students has materialised, opportunities for exchanges between clients and non-clients have been created, and our blog has acted as a talking point for several internet based forums.
This resource has also led to the creation of a number of opportunities for extending our business. In September we will be visiting clients in New York City, October will see a feature in National Westminster Bank’s ‘Sense‘ magazine, and in November we have the exciting opportunity of opening the seminar on women’s tailoring at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London alongside Jaeger and Evie Belle. As a result we have received mentions in the online magazines for both Vogue and Elle, and the influential Fashion United blog.
Some of our most popular items to date have been Dressing the Fuller Figure, Restore, Refurbish, Restyle, Resurrect, Remodel…and the A Word, Variations on a Seam, Folding a Jacket, and more recently Trouser Roles. The credit crunch too stimulated a number of posts, and there appears a regular stream of visitors to the more technically based features in Briefing for Bespoke.
So, thank you all for making this possible, and finally, do let us know if there are any subjects you feel we are missing!
Photo: thanks to Media Bistro
I have a number of autumn/winter trousers in production at the moment. As I was putting the final hand stitches into a blue birdseye wool pair it struck me how, in a small but symbolic way, this garment had contributed to the emancipation of women in the workplace. Courrèges ‘in mid-sixties Europe was a major influence in transforming the combination of matching jacket and trousers into “acceptable formal wear for daytime professionals” (‘A History of Fashion’ J. Anderson Black & Madge Garland). His lead was followed in the US in the form of the ‘pantsuit‘; an combination of matching tunic and trousers.
I remember at the time how its rapid proliferation was both shocking and liberating. Not only was its visual manifestation a force for change, but it introduced a new sense of practicality to the business wardrobe. When I started my business in the 70’s it was, in part, a response to this sea change in the office dress code. Prior to this nothing but a skirt or dress was considered acceptable.
Trousers can be transformational; if they look great, so do you. I would even go so far as to say that this basic garment’s influence can enhance the sense of well being for the wearer. The technique of achieving this miracle is all in the ‘cut’; a dilemma that was addressed in the tailor’s bible, J.P. Thornton’s ‘The sectional system of gentlemen’s garment cutting’, of which I have an ancient copy.
‘The difficulties of trouser cutting can be summed up as follows…..If a trouser is cut to fit a figure when the legs and body are in a straight, standing position how can it fit when the legs and body are in a crooked position, walking? How can the 2 cloth cylinders suitable for the straight legs fit when the wearer is seated?”
They are a deceptively tricky garment to cut well, particularly for the female figure with its more complex curves. The final garment must be comfortable, look good from all angles, and have no visible sign of the internal architecture. The wearer needs to be able to step into an car or board a plane without pinch, stress, or ‘ride up’. Following long days seated in the boardroom the garment should fall naturally into place with the creases intact.
Nowadays the new wools and blends can cope with all seasons and changes in climate. Long gone are the times when all that was available were heavy weight tweeds and pinstripes. And to be just a little more seasonal, how about some breeks. I handed over a pair yesterday all ready for the grouse moors, lined in pink!