Archive for the ‘People, places, personalities’ Category
I make no secret of my love of craft – the special skills, the attention to detail, the creativity. This week I’m privileged to speak at a meeting of the City Women’s Network (London), a forum for female professionals from all sectors and I’m going to return to my favourite theme of craft in the guise of tailoring. Quite by chance I came across an episode of the UK cult TV series ‘The Dragon’s Den’ the other day. (more…)
Last week I put the finishing touches to this glorious red dress and sent it on its way to New York for a client who will attend the Tony Awards on Broadway in a few days’ time. She will not feature on any of the artiste lists at the ceremony as her involvement in theatre is as an investor. An unsung but essential (more…)
When I received a phone call asking if I would make eight suits for eight contestants in a television series little did I realise that it would become such a compelling piece of viewing, and that I would play a cameo role in the last programme.
Michel Roux Jr assumed the mantle of his father at the world famous Le Gavroche Restaurant in London’s Mayfair some years ago. It was the first restaurant in the UK to receive three Michelin rosettes, and it was Michel’s crusade to improve the standard of front of house service throughout the hospitality industry that prompted the idea for the series.
In the UK we are almost drowning in the number of food programmes all fronted by so called celebrity chefs, but this was different. As we talked about my role in the programme it became obvious that there were considerable parallels between the philosophy behind high class dining and my own profession.
In both cases, the high standards of quality and suitability are a given; in fact in one of the programmes they talked about tailor-made dining. What sets our respective businesses apart from other similar providers is the quality of the relationship one builds with one’s client or customer. High quality dining and bespoke tailoring are both about creating memorable experiences.
And for the eight young contestants, in the same way that they were given gustatory experiences to complement their growing knowledge of ‘front-of-house’ management, they had the opportunity to find out what it means to experience the process of bespoke tailoring, and the care and attention which accompanies it; something which was quite alien to one or two of the contestants.
The series is rather a triumph. It showed not only the thought and precision which lies behind high class service, but also documented a life changing transition for a group of young people. They were transformed from a somewhat unruly, disenchanted group of individuals into a team of open-minded young trainees who understand the place of the finer things in life, and with a thirst for knowledge and a hunger for even more experiences.
Nobody ever thinks of buttons unless they come off. But I can tell you there’s a whole technology that exists around buttons and buttonholes. I guess most people imagine that tailors know all there is to know about buttons, but it’s far from the case. When I need some special button feature, I pop along to the trade’s best-known button specialist (more…)
Last year I posted about the wonderful Matsuri which took place in Spitalfields Market in East London, just opposite my studio. Well, it’s back, and this time I’ve managed to organise my posting to let you know in advance! So if you are anywhere near London this Saturday (Sept 18), try to find time to get to Spitalfields (close to the City) and I guarantee you will be overwhelmed by an extraordinary sensory adventure – the colours, sounds, smells, tastes and textures of Japan. (more…)
During the summer my thoughts were solicited by THINK, a style magazine based in Dubai. It was running an article on the latest in bespoke tailoring and how a personal ‘image’ is so important even in the highly regimented worlds of international business and finance. It was especially encouraging for me that the magazine’s correspondent, Ashlee Beard, chose to mention the female angle (more…)
I was thrilled recently to be the subject of one of Mike Southon’s columns in the London Financial Times. If you don’t take the FT you can read the online version, Dresses for Success. Mike is someone who understands business on the human scale. He values the entrepreneurship of individuals and small companies without assuming they all want to become multi-nationals. And he knows that it’s as much about relationships as it is about products and marketing. We didn’t talk much about balance sheets… (more…)
Although I have spoken on both MidWeek and Start the Week in the past, Woman’s Hour is such an iconic programme it was my dream that one day I would be given this opportunity. Thanks must go to Jaeger too who first put the proposal forward to the BBC.
It really is a fascinating, almost ‘other world-y’ type of experience. All very efficiently executed by the production staff who had to co-ordinate our own contribution with that of the other speakers, and all within their strict time allocation.
In preparation for the interview we discussed a wide range of possibilities. In reality, however, it was something of a task to condense the history of tailoring, and at the same time include the crucial intricacies of the ‘shoulder to hip’ profile of a woman’s figure, into the confines of a 10 minute slot. Jenni Murray was extremely deft in co-ordinating our input.
Unfortunately it may be the case that some of you outside of the UK can’t listen to the extract because of licensing restrictions. I hope not.
P.S. it was quite nice to see one of my jackets on the BBC Website too!
After all the time spent planning, the day arrived to give my presentation at the Victoria & Albert Museum. Regular readers of the TfW blog will know that this was something originally put forward as a proposal almost eight months ago, so it was a super feeling to be standing in front of a packed and appreciative audience. Fortunately I had the presence of mind to have it filmed.
My task was to open the seminar, which was beautifully hosted by the V&A’s Head of Adult Education, Jo Banham. Following this was an intriguing presentation by Jaeger. This year is their 125th anniversary and it was wonderful to see some of the pieces and pictures from their archive. I have a couple of vintage Jaeger pieces myself dating from the time Jean Muir was their designer and I treasure them.
Following this, Alan Cannon Jones, Senior Lecturer at the London College of Fashion talked about some of the new trends in tailored fashion, and some of the techniques that are used to support them.
The video attached to this post gives an edited version of my own contribution. There were also a number of Q&A points throughout the seminar and I plan to include some of the issues that were raised in future posts.
The topics I covered ranged from a whistle-stop tour of the history of women’s tailoring to an exploration of the practical skills that support it. This included the consideration of the physiological aspects, hand-crafting techniques, and the complex psychology that underlies the relationship with one’s client. I concluded with some thoughts around the future of women’s tailoring with reference to a statement I had compiled from the opinions of my clients.
“Women should have same the opportunities for investing in their wardrobes in the same way that they invest in their careers”
I hope that you don’t have too many problems with the download.