“Look for the Silver Lining”. (Kern, De Sylva)
Thursday, October 2nd, 2008
When Jerome Kern and Buddy De Sylva first set out to write their 1920’s classic melody I doubt that they had the lining of their jackets in mind, snappy dressers though they were. A well cut lining however, made from an appropriate fabric, can really put a new slant on any garment.
Here are a few reasons why we have a lining in a garment in the first place:
- It makes it easier to slip the garment on and off
- The lining hides the inner workings of a garment
- It can protect the skin from a harsher outer fabric
- It allows a jacket to freely interact with the garment underneath
- It helps to protect the main garment from the body’s heat and moisture
- It helps to maintain a garment’s structure and shape
- It allows a body to move freely
- It preserves the life of a garment, bearing the brunt of the wear and tear, and can be replaced.
- If the main fabric is translucent or opaque a lining can change its hue
- It can add a touch of fun
Maybe you can add to this list?
With tailored jackets in particular, the lining is made slightly bigger than the garment and it is installled with extra pleats and ‘ease’. This helps with both comfort and the outward appearance of the garment. Next time you are out and about see if you can spot the person with the lining that is too small or has shrunk. You will notice from the way the hem at the centre back curls up inside the jacket and how it takes away the crisp fold of the hem.
More recently with the development of new fabrics, the introduction of lycra into the weave has extended the capabilities of linings enabling them to stretch and give a greater feeling of comfort.
Linings can also be a way of bringing a subtle flair to the business suit, and a flash of crimson against an otherwise sombre pinstripe can give added frissons. One of my clients, the violinist Gil Shaham always took a secret to the platform whenever he performed. With a passion for Warner Brothers cartoons, his tail-suit was lined with ‘Loony Tunes’ characters…where Tweety Pie ended up is perhaps best left to the imagination!
Gil, Claudio Abaddo, and the Vienna Philharmonic
Pbotos: Thanks to www.free-scores.com and The Strad
